A Tale of Two Tenba’s – Review of Switch 10 and DNA 11 Camera Bags

I have been researching online for aprox 4 weeks reading reviews of camera bags and suggestions for the MFT (Micro Four Thirds) cameras.

I ended up getting two bags since I saw features in each model that made it hard to decided which model I would prefer.

This review is is written after using the bags for three months on a daily basis both at the office and on assignments in the field.

My previous bag was purchased 6 years ago it was as Domke and was not large enough to accommodate the Olympus 40-150 2.8 Zoom Lens.

1) So the main feature I was looking for in a new bag the ability to hold the new large lens and other camera gear.
2) The second feature was a camera bag that did not advertise itself was a camera bag which is what I did not like about the Dome.
3) The third feature was a way to hold a tripod which non of the previous bas I owned had a great way.

When I was comparing the size of my lens and camera e bodies I figured the Switch 10 and DNA 11 would accommodate the Large Zoom on my EM1 or EM5 in the bag.
Features I liked about both bags.

Top Cover Zipper Access.

DNA11 Top Zipper
DNA11 Top Zipper

I never had a bag that permitted unzipping the top before. I have found it does permit accessing the equipmet with less chance of stuff falling out.

In previous bags you had to open the cover completely. If the flaps are fastened with Velcro it makes such a commotion during events that it draws attention to you. In the past I placed some velcro on most of the velcro on the bag so that a smaller portion was used to close the bags. So when you open the bag it produces less noise.

The Switch 10 uses two magnets and snaps to secure the flap.

Switch10 Magnets and Snaps
Switch10 Magnets and Snaps

the DNA 11 uses Velcro and external Snaps to secure the flap that are unique since they are close by placing them over the snap and then release by sliding off to one side.

DNA11 Front
DNA11 Front

DNA11 Fastener
DNA11 Fastener
DNA11 Slide
DNA11 Slide

One thing that I did notice was if the covers are not fastened shut the content does spill out which happened twice.

The Switch 10 has an external padded back pocket large enough to hold an iPad Air with out a case.

Switch10 Back Pocket
Switch10 Back Pocket

the DNA 11 has in internal padded pocket large enough to hold an macbook air 11. I was also able to fit an iPad Pro (not in a case) between the internal sleeve and the padded pocket.

DNA11 Back Internal Pocket with Velcro Strap
DNA11 Back Internal Pocket with Velcro Strap

Camera Compartment

Both camera bags have a configuration of three compartments. There is a main difference between the way the top flaps of the bags work.

On the Switch 10 the top sections have velcro that can fasten the tops and lock off the compartment.

Switch 10 Internal Compartments
Switch 10 Internal Compartments

The DNA 11 top sections are free folding.

DNA11 top Compartments free
DNA11 top Compartments free

Front Pockets large enough to hold Filters or external hard drives.

The main difference is on the Switch 10 the Pockets are contained in a zipped compartment and the front pockets on the DNA 11 are open in the top.

Switch 10 Front Pockets
Switch 10 Front Pockets

There are two front pockets that stretch and one large zippered pocket to hold content.

DNA 11 Front Pockets
DNA 11 Front Pockets

There are four pockets on two on each side with a thin pencil slot on each side. The pockets are thin yet can hold a filter.
The external flap has two pockets one on the left that is zipped and I place keys and small items that I don’t want fall out. The pocket on the right I place headphones.

Side mesh pockets are good to hold glasses, battery chargers, the rain cover

DNA 11 Side Mesh Pockets
DNA 11 Side Mesh Pockets
DNA 11 Side Mesh Pockets
DNA 11 Side Mesh Pockets

Straps and Loops.

DNA 11 Suitcase Straps
DNA 11 Suitcase Straps
DNA 11 Suitcase Straps
DNA 11 Suitcase Straps
DNA 11 Suitcase Straps
Switch 10 Tripod Straps

Here is where I see a difference between the two bags.

The Switch 10 contains some side loops above the mesh pockets. I have used those loops to hang items off of. The Shoulder strap is connected and does not detach from the bag. The padding on the strap is a little minimal. One of the main features that made me consider getting the switch bag was loops at the bottom of the bag for securing a tripod on the bottom. Tenba provides two straps for securing the tripod. However with the small tripod I carry the length of the velcro was too short the strap was longer than I needed and would not hold the tripod. I made my own velcro straps and used them with my Siri Tripod.

OK The idea that looked so good on paper was not to my liking in practice. The reason I did not like it was the Tripod is triangular and when attached to the bottom of the bag it would not permit the bag to sit up but fall over. I guess if you keep the bag on your shoulder and don’t set it down it might work.

Some of the other ways I tried to carry my tripod was to have it stick out the top of flap with one end zippered opened. The second way was to have it sit over the top of the camera compartments under the cover. but I have to remove it to get the gear out. The last way was hold it in the mesh side pockets.

The DNA 11 has straps in the back that permit you placing the bag over the handle of a suitcase.

The shoulder strap disconnects which I like.

The top cover has a handle that permits you hold the bag by the handle. I like that.

My Ideal bag would mix and match between the two.

The mounting straps from the DNA 11
The strap and padded section from the DNA 11
The Zippered Cover options of Switch 10
The Side Loops from the Switch 10
The Velcro Top Dividers from Switch 10
The Pockets in the Cover from DNA 11
The Removable Camera sections from DNA 11

Add a new feature to both bags. A velcro strap that would go around the shoulder strap with excess to hold the top of a tripod. The bottom of the tripod is held in the side velcro pocket.

Rain Cover. Both bags come with a rain cover that can be used cover the bag and keep it try when it rains.

Rain Cover Closed
Rain Cover Closed
Rain Cover Opened
Rain Cover Opened

The Pringles Size comparison

Tenba Switch 10
Tenba Switch 10
Tenba DNA 11
Tenba DNA 11


With the purchase of the new iPad Pro and the features of the Handle and removable strap the DNA 11 would be a better match for me. Follow me on Twitter @photodisneyblog for giveaway of the Tenba Switch 10.

Long Exposures at Disney for fireworks and others stuff at Night.

As the sun sets on Mouse Land a new opportunity for taking photos which other will pass. In other words you might have the ability to take a photo with out much distraction of people sitting on the bench next to that Buzz Light Year topiary.

There are three settings on your camera and two additional tools that will help you get nice pictures when it turn dark.

Camera settings:

1) ISO setting – this is sensitivity to light. The higher the number the more the camera can make out in dim light however the details become more smeared.

2) Shutter Speed – The duration you leave the camera open to accept the light coming in.s

3) The Aperture Setting – The depth of field or how much of a scene will be in focus.

Camera Plus is an iPhone app which I use and here is a good tutorial they wrote on these three settings


The PDF is here iPhone Exposure Tips


1) Tripod, Bean Bag, Trash Can, Fence Post – anything you can use to keep you camera still while you take long exposures.

2) A Flash, an LED Flashlight – anything you can do to add light to the scene.

So during the day time you will find people all over the park like this.

Notice my ISO is 200 and my shutter speed is 1/80 of a sec I can hand hold the camera.


Now at night time I brought my iPhone and a tripod. Since I have the tripod I wanted the lowest ISO setting so the image would be as clean (or as clear) as can be. The iPhone has only one aperture mode so you are left to adjust the shutter and iso settings. These photos were taken with Tap Tap Camera Plus software it also limits my shutter speed to a max of 1/2 of a sec.

Notice ISO is 160 the iPhone can go as low as 32. However since I can not raise the Shutter speed any more I was left to compensate by raising the ISO.


I still was not happy with the results so I set a delay of 5 sec timer on the photo. Then I clicked the button and took my LED flashlight and moved back and light the topiary just a little more. Notice the Settings have not changed all that changed was the Flashlight.

Note: The reason I could do this is two fold. 1

1) The 1/2 sec exposure gives time for the flashlight to add light at minimal iso.

2) the tripod and timer gives me time to move else where with the LED flashlight.


As you can see I did not have any other people sitting around at night.

Another scenario this time you will see how having to use High ISO vs low ISO and external light make a difference

ISO 1250 on the phone


ISO 1250 on the iPhone Full Size you can see the smear in the detail

OK there really was nothing else I could do here. I maxed out my camera. I can not add a longer exposure !



Maxed out your can see the detail in the leaves due to the low ISO of 200. Note its not the lowest ISO but I did not have any brighter light and I as maxed out on my shutter speed so the compromise is better than the above photo.


Now the same principles are true for taking fireworks images The big difference is we can not control the Fireworks or the Flashlight is you wish. So we have three camera settings: shutter, ISO and aperture.

In most cases you max out the ISO the lowest setting. The Aperture between 5.6 and 8 and your shutter speed.

The most basic situation is hand holding your camera and taking fireworks images.

The fireworks are bright so your limitation her is how long can you hold the camera steady.

You end not bring able to hold the camera long enough to capture a complete firework going off.

1/40 of a sec. Techniques : Hold you breath and let it out slow at the end press the button. Brace your body against a pole, a garbage can. Brace the camera on a garbage can, Pole or railing.


Notice at F 2.7 you can see the detail of the fireworks as you close the aperture (Raise the number) You will lose the detail thats why you can can’t just max out a F22.


At this type of picture taking TIMING is CRITICAL since you are open for less than on sec

Here is what happened over the last 3 sec of this fireworks life. These were three separate photos I took once it fired off till it died.


You can get lucky with shots like this one.


Detail is preset in the lower aperture setting of 2.7


So now I have a tripod and I can keep the camera still long what can I do next.

I was not expecting to take photos but happened to walk outside and rested the camera on a fence post

Longer exposure and higher Aperture. Notice the detail is not the same over 3 sec exposure

Also since it was not on a tripod i could not frame it like I wanted to I did that by cropping the image later.


Notice enough time to capture the lasers in the sky and more than one firework. Notice the more you close the aperture (raise the number) the more fireworks turn into streaks.


So I want to capture a longer duration. Well there is a limit of how much light you can capture before it paints your whole image in light. consider if you had a blank plate and started laying out candy in streaks light fireworks. At some point you end up with a plate of candy and you lose the image you were creating.

The example here is from a handheld shot but due to the lower aperture many fireworks going off at the same time you end up with a big mess of white.


Same setting a sec later less light


The solution is placing a filter on your lens. A Neutral Density filter is like the old day when they gave you a piece of dark film to look at an eclipse. Heavy Sunglasses.

ISO 100 10 Sec duration and ND filter



Do for a longer duration you can add multiple ND filters but you end up loosing detail the because the longer duration implies more light and you need to balance that with aperture.

The best solution is taking two 8 sec photos and stacking them into one image.




You still sendup with good detail and a good duration

Canon, Nikon, Olympus, Iphone

Which Camera and Lens should I take on a Disney Vacation? (Daytime Comparison)

This is one of the most asked questions in photography forums on the internet. I just got back from trip where I used four cameras, I will try to point out the benefits of each in this post and help you make a decision regarding your upcoming vacation.

Every camera you have is capable of taking pictures otherwise the manufactures would not be creating and selling them. I think there are two questions that will help you solve the main question on which camera and lens do I need.

First: How will will you view your final image? what I mean by this question is will be 4×6, 8×10, Facebook, Twitter, WordPress, 2ft by 3ft picture hanging on your wall. One of the biggest faults of digital photography is the the ability to zoom an image on the screen. I have heard the following statements, “Wow I can see the eyelashes”, “I can read the text on that sign at the end of the street” however most of us are not James Bond and need the ability like Google maps to zoom in from the earths view down to your driveway and mailbox number. The photo you will produce will be at a static size viewed from a specific distance.

Second: Looking at your past photos can you tell what causes satisfactory and unsatisfactory results. This is more difficult for people who don’t understand the basic of photography. I will try to point out some of the issues that are common in travel photography.

There are three things to determine here:

a) The Environment does not lend to a good image on its own. For example its dark, or it could be to bright.

b) The photographer made some poor choices.

c) The equipment used does not have the capability to overcome the scene photographed. Such as the race cars are moving too fast, the kids or the rides are moving and I get blurry pictures, Fireworks are to0 bright.

If you can’t answer the above questions than its like recommending a school bus, a tank, or a motorcycle to some one looking to purchase transportation.

I have photographed Disney using 1.3 meg cameras in 2000 and full frame canon 5d mark III. One of my most favorite images was taken with the 1.3 meg camera and is printed as a 4×6 and framed in the house.

There are four camera categories:

1) The Cell Phone Camera or iPad Camera. Images used here will be from iPhone 6 Plus, and Lumina 925

2) The Point and Shoot Camera. Olympus TG-850

3) The Mirrorless Camera. Olympus OM-D EM1

4) The SLR Camera. – did not take on this trip might look in previous trips photos for examples.

If you neglect all the elements of Lens and features the main differentiator between all these categories is the sensor size. The sensor size will have a direct relationship to the ISO setting on your camera which will translate into images with Higher ISO will look more smeared and less detailed. (Nosier)

So in an excellent source of well balanced light like outdoors most people don’t have any compalints using any of the cameras above.

Compare these images. Note they are all viewed on a laptop screen an image that is sufficient to print a 4×6 for a vacation photo album.


The first image is from the Olympus DL340 1.3 meg file

Olympus DL340 Selfi Image


Image from iPhone 6 plus 8 meg file 15 years later.



Day Time Photo Comparisons

Olympus TG-850 Daytime

Olympus TG-850 Daytime
Olympus TG-850 Daytime
Olympus TG-850 Point and Shoot Daytime 16 meg image
Olympus TG-850 Point and Shoot Daytime 16 meg image

Iphone 6 plus 8 meg day time image.

Iphone 6 plus 8 meg image daytime
Iphone 6 plus 8 meg image daytime


Lumina Iphone 925 7 meg Daytime image



Olympus EM1 16 meg Daytime image




This is an example of what size do you want your final image displayed.  During the daytime all devices even a 1.3 camera thats 15 years old can produce a 4×6 image.

Note:  Disney Photopass photographers use nikon cameras with a final image that is 7meg is what they provide.

If you are pleased with 4×6 to 8×10 prints the next thing to review are non daytime photos when the conditions are not ideal.

Another thing to consider is how much gear do you want to carry along in the parks.  How much time do you plan on making your family wait while you are taking photos.  The more gear you carry the more time you will be involved in carrying for the gear and setting it up and down.

Part of my comprimise was to take one lens and camera to the park.  Take time to permit the family to do activities while I walk around taking photos.  Going back to the park after the family is in the room and taking photos.  Some days no cameras in the park.  Use Photopass services to take photos of the whole family.

The next post will deal with Fireworks.

Visit Again for more tips, Barry Shulam

Canon, Nikon, Olympus, Disney, Fireworks, Lens, Flash, Photopass, DPReview, Amazon

Three are better than One?

Desktops vs Smartphones.

Our preferences for Landscape vs Portrait layouts are mostly driven by the devices we will view them on. I remember back in 1987 there was a website that specialized in Desktop Wallpapers. Today every photographer becomes the consumer of their own images.

So here is an idea can be achieved by more than one way. You can use most graphic programs to set images on layers and then crop or mask them out.

If cropping and masking is a little confusing for you I used a program on the Mac computer from the app store that simplifies the process. I like this process since its so quick and simple that I don’t even bother with more complicated process.

PeralMountain Technology Co. Has both Mac and IOS versions of this CollageIt 3 Pro. (I don’t have any affiliation to this company or their product – I have only used the mac version)

The interface looks like this.

These three images are from Starwars Weekend in Hollywood Studios previously MGM. In the past these weekends took place in May and June.

So if you have 3 images in one orientation you can combine them into one in a different orientation.

Come back and visit for more lessons and tips on Disney Photography.

Barry Shulam

The most overlooked feature when purchasing a digital camera.

In the past cameras could not be upgraded by the consumer.  With  the advent of Cell Phones we have gotten used to having new features and fixes updated every year.  This month IOS9 is coming out for Apples iPhone.

One of the best features that will give life and longevity to your camera are Firmware Updates which are software updates.

My first DSLR camera was the first Canon D30  it produced 3 Meg files.   I do remember it did have some firmware updates however so many new features can be added to the modern camera bodies today.

Fuji has been known as one of the manufactures that provides firmware updates to its cameras but that distinction is changing to include Olympus as well.  Olympus announced today that in November they are adding to there Olympus EM1

“Focus Stacking mode and Focus Bracketing mode for advanced macro shooting and Electronic Shutter (Silent Mode)”  

One of the most exciting things for me to is to see the progression of features in Olympus cameras and their adoption in the Olympus EM1 camera.

When you consider your next camera check and see the previous bodies and their firmware update history.  It should give you an idea what you kind of support you can expect.

Firmware updates communicate that the vendor cares about its community.


Introduction to a Photographer’s Disney Bog

I am moving my exra3rd.com photography postings to this site and will continue to post photography lessons and tips for free.  I started back in 120mm film days with a Kodak Brownie my grandfather gave me.  My first film camera was an Olympus OM4 which I still have.  My first digital camera was an olympus D-340L a 1.2MP camera.  I think cheap security cameras do a better job today.

Anyhow I will have to dig out my Disney Film photos but for now my first Digital photos were in 2000.  The photo from epcot was my 1.2mp photo.  It has a proprietary memory card think of a large flat sd card about twice the size of todays sd cards.  It used AA batteries which on vacation was considered a great thing since they were easily accessible.

The reason I have started this blog was the demise of another disney photography blog that I enjoyed viewing.

I want to become a resource for all Disney photographers.  Those who enjoy taking picture and inspiring others to being happy with a camera in-front of their face.

Barry Shulam